Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves
Presenting theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, this text includes basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves
Part 1: Linear Aspects
Chapter List
- Chapter 1: Introduction
- Chapter 2: Propagation of Transient Waves in Open Water of Essentially Constant Depth
- Chapter 3: Refraction by Slowly Varying Depth or Current
- Chapter 4: Long Waves of Infinitesimal Amplitude Over Bottom with Appreciable Variations
- Chapter 5: Harbor Oscillations Excited by Incident Long Waves
- Chapter 6: Effects of Head Loss at a Constriction on the Scattering of Long Waves: Hydraulic Theory
- Chapter 7: Multiple Scattering by Seabed Irregularities
- Chapter 8: Floating Body Dynamics: Diffraction and Radiation by Large Bodies
- Chapter 9: Viscous Damping in Small-Amplitude Waves
Overview
Many types of waves involving different physical factors exist in the ocean. As in the elementary problem of a spring-mass system, all waves must be associated with some kind of restoring force. It is therefore convenient to make a crude classification of ocean waves according to the restoring force, as shown in Table 1.1.
| Wave Type | Physical Mechanism | Typical Period [a] | Region of Activity | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sound | Compressibility | 10 -2 10 -5 s | Ocean interior | |
| Capillary ripples | Surface tension | < 10 -1 s | | |
| Wind waves and swell | Gravity | 1 25 s | Air - water interface | |
| Tsunami | Gravity | 10 min 2 h | ||
| Internal waves | Gravity and density stratification | 2 min 10 h | Layer of sharp density change | |
| Storm surges | Gravity and earth rotation | 1 10 h | Near coastline | |
| Tides | Gravity and earth rotation | 12 24 h | | |
| Planetary waves | Gravity, earth rotation and variation of latitude or ocean depth | O(100... |
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