Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves
Presenting theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, this text includes basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography.
TABLE OF CONTENTS Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves
List of Figures
Chapter 1: Introduction
- Figure 1.1: Dispersion curves for a progressive wave.
- Figure 1.2: A group of waves within a narrow frequency band.
- Figure 1.3: The envelope front of a sinusoidal wavetrain.
Chapter 2: Propagation of Transient Waves in Open Water of Essentially Constant Depth
- Figure 2.1: Contours for inverse Laplace transform.
- Figure 2.2: The real part of exp{ it[ g( k) - g( k 0)]}.
- Figure 2.3: Variations of ?, ?' , and ?" with k.
- Figure 2.4: Space time plot of dispersive waves between two moving observers.
- Figure 2.5: Leading wave due to a symmetrical surface hump or trough. The ordinate is ? [( gh) 1/2 h 2 t] 1/3[
, see Eq. (2.1.42). - Figure 2.6: Leading wave due to antisymmetric ground tilt ?([
] -1 [( gh) 1/2 h 2 t/2] 2/3, see Eq. (2.1.49). - Figure 2.7: T, - T p, and T pp as functions of p (from Kajiura, 1963, Bull. Earthquake Res. Inst. Univ. Tokyo).
- Figure 2.8: Slow rise of amplitude near the wavemaker.
- Figure 2.9: Comparison of theory (Miles, 1962) with experiments. The amplitude is measured at 160 ft from the wavemaker; frequency is ? = 5.52 rad/s (from Longuet- Higgins, 1974a, Proceedings, Tenth Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics. Reproduced by permission of U.S. Office of Naval Research).
- Figure 2.10: Effect of group velocity versus phase velocity in deep water C g
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