TABLE OF CONTENTS Wave simulators may be established, using 2D regular long-crested and 2D random long-crested wave models. In each of the wave simulators, surface elevation, wave-induced water particle velocity and acceleration, dynamical pressure and pressure gradient, of an arbitrary point in space and time is defined mathematically. This allows the wave simulators to compute the wave kinematics during a time-domain dynamic analysis.
Comprehensive studies have been conducted to identify the most suitable wave theories for representing the near-bottom kinematics due to wave action. In Dean et al. (1986) it was concluded that linear wave theory provides a good prediction of near-bottom kinematics for a wide range of relative water depth and wave steepness. One reason for this relatively good agreement is that the influence of non-linearities considered in higher order wave theories is reduced with depth below the free surface. In Kirkgoz (1986), it was also found that linear wave theory gave acceptable predictions of near seabed water particle velocities in waves close to the breaking point. It thus seems appropriate to apply linear wave theory to near seabed objects for a wide range of wave heights, periods and water depths. The calculated fluid velocities and accelerations of the surface waves, are transferred to seabed level using linear wave theory.
The 2D regular long-crested waves are useful when investigating the effects of extreme waves, while 2-D random long-crested waves are used when modeling a complete sea-state.
