TABLE OF CONTENTS This application provides a simple estimate for the transformation of monochromatic waves. It considers two common processes of wave transformation: refraction (using Snell s law) and shoaling using wave properties predicted by linear wave theory (Airy, 1845). Given wave properties and a crest angle at a known depth, this application predicts the values in deep water and at a subject location specified by a new water depth. An important assumption is that all depth contours are assumed to be straight and parallel. In addition to the wave transformation results, this application reports common bulk wave properties from linear wave theory. More detailed discussion of these methods can be found in the SPM (1984), Dean and Dalrymple (1984), Sarpkaya and Isaacson (1981), as well the section of this reference manual entitled Linear Wave Theory.
In deep water, waves often referred to as ocean swell have a profile that is very nearly sinusoidal, with long, low crests. As the waves propagate into shallow water, they undergo a transformation, starting where the waves are affected by the seabed at a depth approximately one-half of the deepwater wavelength. The wave velocity, height, and length alter. This process is called wave shoaling.
When waves travel at an angle to underwater contours, the portion of the wave in deeper water is movins faster than the part in shallower water. This variation causes the wave crest to bend toward alignment with the contours. This process is called wave refraction.
