TABLE OF CONTENTS This application yields cumulative probability distributions of wave heights as a field of irregular waves propagate from deep water through the surf zone. The application is based on two random-wave theories by Yoshimi Goda (1975 and 1984). The 1975 paper concerns transformation of random waves shoaling over a plane bottom with straight parallel contours. This analysis treated breaking and broken waves and resulted in cumulative probability distributions for wave heights given a water depth. It did not include refraction, however. The 1984 article details a refraction procedure for random waves propagating over a plane bottom with straight parallel contours assuming a particular incident spectrum. This ACES application combines the two approaches by treating directional random waves propagating over a plane bottom with straight parallel contours. This application also uses the theory of Shuto (1974) for the shoaling calculation. The theories assume a Rayleigh distribution of wave heights in the nearshore zone and a Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu incident directional spectrum. The processes modeled include:
Wave refraction
Wave shoaling
Wave breaking
Wave setup
Surf beat
General assumptions and limitations in this irregular wave transformation discussion are:
The incident wave spectrum is of the Bretschnieder-Mitsuyasu type.
The incident wave height distribution is of the Rayleigh type.
Waves propagate over a smooth, absorbent beach (no reflection) with straight, parallel contours.
Irregular wave shoaling may be approximated by shoaling of monochromatic waves.
The probability distribution of broken...
